Matsue, a lakeside town embraced by the setting sun.
Visiting the landscapes that left a lasting impression on Lafcadio Hearn
Just a 30-minute drive from Izumo Enmusubi Airport, Matsue, overlooking Lake Shinji, is a city that was beloved by Lafcadio Hearn, the Meiji-era literary giant who left behind masterpieces such as "Hoichi the Earless" and "The Snow Woman," and his wife, Setsu. Embark on a journey to feel the traces of literature and history as you walk through the landscapes that inspired Hearn.
A blissful time gazing at a beautiful garden.
This samurai residence is where Lafcadio Hearn spent about five months. Originally the home of the Negishi family, samurai of the Matsue domain, Hearn was particularly fond of the garden, which was created in 1868 (Meiji 1). Sitting in the room with a veranda, the garden spreads out on three sides, encircling you. Sharpen your senses as you feel the atmosphere of that time.
Matsue Castle
Built in 1611 (Keicho 16), it is one of the 12 remaining original castle keeps and is designated a National Treasure. A must-see spot to enjoy history and scenery.
I was moved by the sunset reflected on the lake's surface.
Lake Shinji is a brackish lake that embraces the city of Matsue and has long supported the city's history through logistics and food production. The sunset view, which changes into various colors depending on the season and time of day and is said to have been loved by Yakumo and Setsu, has been selected as one of "Japan's Top 100 Sunsets." If you take a ride on the sightseeing boat "Hakucho-go," you can enjoy a cruise that feels as if you are enveloped in the sunset.
Karokoro Square
In a square near the Kyomise shopping street in Matsue City, there is a relief of Lafcadio Hearn's back.
I went to a shrine to have my future relationships predicted.
This ancient shrine is beloved as a deity of matchmaking. It is said that Setsu, the wife of Yakumo, performed a fortune-telling ritual at the Mirror Pond when she was a girl. "If the paper sinks quickly, your match will come quickly; if it sinks slowly, it will come slowly. If it sinks close, it will be with someone close; if it sinks far, it will be with someone far away." Gazing at the washi paper and coin floating on the water's surface, you can feel the passage of time.
Tamatsukuri Onsen
One of Japan's oldest hot springs, with records indicating that Lafcadio Hearn also visited. After your stroll, relax in the hot springs.
The life of Lafcadio Hearn
Follow the timeline
Located next to Lafcadio Hearn's former residence, the memorial museum showcases Hearn's life and achievements. Exhibits include materials that reveal his life in Matsue, his deep interest in Japanese legends and myths, a recreation of his study, manuscripts, and letters. It's a place where you can truly immerse yourself in Hearn's worldview.
A mysterious cave reminiscent of mythology
These rugged sea caves, carved out by the sheer cliffs towering over the Shimane Peninsula, are bathed in seawater, creating a fantastical landscape of interplay of light and shadow. It's a place where the raw power of nature that captivated Yakumo, and the mystical atmosphere that inspired myths and folktales, still thrive. From March to November, you can enjoy these caves by taking a sightseeing cruise.
Prayer for longevity
A large turtle statue believed to bring good fortune.
Gesshoji Temple is the family temple of the Matsudaira family, the lords of the Matsue Domain. Within its grounds is the "Great Turtle Statue," which also appears in the writings of Lafcadio Hearn. It is also known as the base stone for the "Juzōhi (memorial tower for living)," which was erected by Matsudaira Harusato, the seventh lord of the Matsue Domain, to pray for the longevity of his father, Matsudaira Muneyuki, the sixth lord. It is a symbol of prayers for longevity and a place that conveys the history and culture of Matsue to future generations.
I extended my trip from Matsue...
To the places associated with Izumo
It attracts followers from all over the country.
To a shrine for matchmaking
Izumo Taisha, a center of history and mythology, is mentioned in the Kojiki, Japan's oldest historical record. Yakumo was the first foreigner to be allowed to enter the main hall of Izumo (Kitsuki) Taisha for worship. It enshrines Okuninushi-no-Okami, the god of nation-building, and is also famous as the "god of matchmaking." Let's go and pray for good fortune in love.
As a sacred place for sunsets
A shrine that has been loved since ancient times
Yakumo, along with Setsu, traveled from Inasa Beach by fishing boat to Hinomisaki Shrine. Located at the westernmost tip of the Shimane Peninsula, this shrine is said to "protect the night of Japan." It consists of two shrines: the lower shrine "Hishinomiya" which enshrines Amaterasu Omikami, and the upper shrine "Kami no Miya" which enshrines Susanoo-no-Mikoto. The beautiful vermilion shrine buildings are well worth seeing.
Bake Bus ~Visiting places associated with Lafcadio Hearn and Setsu~
If you're looking to explore Matsue, the castle town where Lafcadio Hearn and Setsu first met, a guided bus tour is highly recommended.
This is a half-day plan lasting about three and a half hours, so why not take a casual pilgrimage to the places that hold special memories for the two of you?
Sightseeing bus tour around Matsue City
Information about the Bakebus
"Bakebake" TV Drama Series Exhibition
A drama exhibition where you can experience the world of the NHK morning drama "Bakebake" is being held at "Karokoro Kobo" in Matsue City. There are plenty of things to see, including costumes and props actually used in the show, and panel displays.
"Bakebake" TV Drama Series Exhibition
(Mon), December 8, 2025 -(Tue) March 31, 2026
Matsue and Izumo Gourmet
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Clam soup
Local cuisine specializing in Lake ShinjiLake Shinji boasts the largest clam catch in Japan. Often featured in "Bakebake," it showcases the rich flavor nurtured by the natural environment of Lake Shinji. A warm bowl with a clear broth and rich umami flavor gently unfolds, providing a comforting and soothing experience.
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Izumo Zenzai
A cup of tea beloved in Izumo as a symbol of good fortune.Izumo zenzai is said to originate from "Kamiari mochi," which was served at the "Kamiari Matsuri" Shinto ritual in Izumo. The large Dainagon adzuki beans have a rich texture, the soup is plentiful, and while it's not too sweet, the hint of seaweed salt adds a nice touch. It's characterized by the inclusion of red and white mochi balls and rice cakes.
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Izumo Wariko Soba
A representative of Izumo soba cultureWariko soba is served in a three-tiered container. It is said that this style originated in the Edo period when soba was carried in tiered boxes for eating outdoors. First, condiments and dipping sauce are added to the top tier, and once you finish eating, any remaining sauce and condiments are poured over the next tier.
Recommended souvenirs selected by the FDA
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Houichi's Ear Manju
"Omiyage Honpo Nakaura" offers a unique steamed bun shaped like a plump ear, inspired by Lafcadio Hearn's ghost story "Hoichi the Earless." The light dough encases a traditional, moist white bean paste filling. Its refined flavor makes it popular with people of all ages.
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Hern Sable
These baked goods are from "Matsue Claude," a Western-style confectionery shop in Matsue City. The design features unique words selected from Setsu's English vocabulary notebook, themed around "English lessons." Enjoy these travel memories at home.
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Matsue Beer Herun
Matsue Beer Herun boasts fragrant, rich craft beers. Their craft beers, released only once a year in limited quantities, often feature labels inspired by Lafcadio Hearn, each offering a profound flavor. A tasting comparison is highly recommended.
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Hearn's Yokan
Ichirikido is a long-established Japanese confectionery shop founded during the Edo period, specifically the Horeki era (1751-1764). Yakumo, who had a sweet tooth, loved their yokan (sweet bean jelly) so much that his wife Setsu continued to order it even after he left Matsue. They offer two types: "Ogura Yokan" and "Beni Yokan," which is served on special occasions in Matsue.